Mica & float

deena · Post by **deena** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 10:08 am

I just recieved my new airbrush and am ready to try enamels and mica on float glass. After going thru the archives I am a little confused on firing pear-ex. Should you fire the blank (1/4" 2 layer first) Then the mica and use the slump firing for bonding the mica?And if you use enamels and mica can you fire to a full float fuse between the glass. Thanks for all of your help.
Deena

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 10:38 am

no, you don't fire it first. you spray, full fuse fire (1450 or above) to get the mica to stick. there'll still be some that flakes off since only the layer closest to the glass sticks or sinks in. use plenty.

a slump temp won't bond the mica, but may cure the enamels, depending upon which ones you use of course.

i don't understand 'between the glass'. the mica/enamels go on top of the glass, not in a sandwich.

deena · Post by **deena** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 11:39 am

I meant sandwiching them between layers. Thanks for your help
Deena

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 11:50 am

deena wrote:I just recieved my new airbrush and am ready to try enamels and mica on float glass. After going thru the archives I am a little confused on firing pear-ex. Should you fire the blank (1/4" 2 layer first) Then the mica and use the slump firing for bonding the mica?And if you use enamels and mica can you fire to a full float fuse between the glass. Thanks for all of your help.
Deena

Deena

I have had success overcoating enamels on the surface with mica and firing to fuse temps. I am able to slump this blank with the enamel side down as the mica protects the enamel from picking up kiln wash marks.

I find casing enamels between glass is trickier than it seems. I prefire the enamels to 1000ÂºF. This means that the enamel has to soften at theat temp and the hitemp enamels don't. The 2 solutions are to use lower firing enamels or add lower firing flux to stick the enamel to the glass during the prefire.

There is more to it, but I don't feel like writing a book here.

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 11:56 am

Deena

I just noticed that you are from VA and that you don't have an Email address posted. I can cover these techniques in my 3 day painting on glass class at Millennium Arts Center before WGWE.

daffodildeb · Post by **daffodildeb** » Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:18 am

Charlie, I am confused. I tried fusing some pendants with mica on the surface, but it turned out horrible! There was absolutely no color or shine. What did I do wrong--overheat? The rest of the pendant was a full fuse, and was all right.

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Thu Aug 28, 2003 10:37 am

daffodildeb wrote:Charlie, I am confused. I tried fusing some pendants with mica on the surface, but it turned out horrible! There was absolutely no color or shine. What did I do wrong--overheat? The rest of the pendant was a full fuse, and was all right.

mica looks better the darker the background. you'll get little to no color on float.

when i've used it, i spray a lot on a dark (usually black) background. full fuse. mask and blast off what i don't want, then firepolish. look at some of avery anderson's or ron coleman's pieces in the gallery for good examples.

deena · Post by **deena** » Thu Aug 28, 2003 1:03 pm

Bert,

I would love to go to your class but cannot at the moment. If you plan on doing any more after dec in the area I would love to come. Virginia or North Carolina. My e-mail is deena@potteryglasscreations.com.

WarmGlass.com

Mica & float

Mica & float

Re: Mica & float