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I am using BE wash for the first time and have a few questions.

1) I used the ratio of powder to water they suggest (4 to 1) and read the instructions to put on four coats for a previously fired item....four coats of that ratio wash BARELY gave the shelf a pink tint. I added lots more powder and put on many more than 4 coats. I once read that any markings/writing on a shelf or mold should not show through the wash at all, is this so? That big ol' bucket is starting to look like it won't cover as many firings as I had imagined.

2) If I am not firing right away, giving the shelves and molds will time to dry, do I still need to do the 500 degree cure?

3)Lastly, I use thinfire between shelf and glass, do I really need to re-coat the shelf after every full fuse fire? As it stands I have been using kiln wash from a ceramics store and I recoat the shelf only when I get nicks or it starts to yellow (after lots of fires), same for the molds.

I bought some BE only because I figured I would give wash designed for glass a try.

Thanks ahead of time for any replies.

lissa.

lissa wrote:I am using BE wash for the first time and have a few questions.

1) I used the ratio of powder to water they suggest (4 to 1) and read the instructions to put on four coats for a previously fired item....four coats of that ratio wash BARELY gave the shelf a pink tint. I added lots more powder and put on many more than 4 coats. I once read that any markings/writing on a shelf or mold should not show through the wash at all, is this so? That big ol' bucket is starting to look like it won't cover as many firings as I had imagined.

For a mullite shelf I use a ratio of 5 parts water to 1 part primer and put on three coats. I can see the shelf through the light wash and I have never had a problem with the separator failing. I think there is a misconception that more is better (sells more kiln wash that way...planned obsolescence?). The shelf just needs to be covered with no bare spots unwashed.

I treat my Unifrax shelf in an entirely different way. I apply many layers of wash so that I can sand off the top coat and leave a base in place to accept the new primer.

2) If I am not firing right away, giving the shelves and molds will time to dry, do I still need to do the 500 degree cure?

I kiln cure mine, many don't. If you live in a humid climate, kiln curing may be advisable. If not and you are sure it's bone dry...no need to kiln cure. This primer isn't going to behave terribly differently in terms of application and curing than what you are used to from your pottery supply store. Mix and apply in a similar fashion, get it dry in the same way you were doing before...all should be fine.

3)Lastly, I use thinfire between shelf and glass, do I really need to re-coat the shelf after every full fuse fire? As it stands I have been using kiln wash from a ceramics store and I recoat the shelf only when I get nicks or it starts to yellow (after lots of fires), same for the molds.

Not if you are using Thinfire. Priming your shelves is like insurance in case your paper fails when you are firing on paper. I would only reapply wash everytime you inted to fire on the primer without paper, or follow your previous patterns and replace once it has discolored or degraded.

As far as your molds go...once you have a coat of primer on them they are good for gazillions of firings unless you scrape it off or it wears off. I've never reapplied wash to any of my clay molds. A good cover of wash isn't going to need to be changed on a bisque mold since it never gets abused by the high heat of a full fuse.

I bought some BE only because I figured I would give wash designed for glass a try.

Thanks ahead of time for any replies.

lissa.

You'll like it, it's a good product. Since you aren't relying on the primer, but paper as a separator, I'm not sure you'll notice any differences. Let us know if you do though. I'm curious.

Great, thanks so much for your informative reply, sounds like I am good to go. And it's nice to know that I don't need to be piling it on. Thanks again.

lissa.