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I am in the midst of creating sconces (max bulb wattage is 60) and have decided it will be easier to use a clear adhesive to glue "part a" to "part b" after I slump each part (rather than attempt to tack fuse then slump due to varying thicknesses of parts a & b).

Does anyone have a recommendation for a clear adhesive that would hold up under the heat generated from a 60 watt bulb? Some bubbles from this clear adhesive would be ok due to the way they are designed.

Brand names would be appreciated. I know about Hxtal and some of the uv adhesives. Are their silicones that would hold up?

Thanks much. Robin

Hi Robin,
I'm with His Glassworks and I may be able to help. We sell HXTAL but this might not be the best choice for your project. HXTAL can degrade if it gets too hot. By too hot I mean over 115 Defrees F. It will begin to turn yellow at temperatures over that and may begin to fail structurally at the elevated temps. UV adhesives are also not recommended in high heat applications.

If the slight cloudiness of silicone sealants will be acceptable I would go in that direction. Silicone can take temps beyond that of lightbulbs and should be your strongest and most durable option. Brand names? They are really all quite similar. Just hit the local hardware store. Don't use 'LEXEL' or 'GOOP' as they are not true silicones and probably won't take the heat.

Bob Stephan

norland noa 61 works good & holds up to moderate heat but you need a UV lamp to cure it. I will sell 1 oz. bottle for $20.00.

My experience with silicones has been at temps much higher than you will encounter and it works great.

Jack

I second Bob and Jack. I use silicone for many glass to glass and glass to metal bonds, and have seen it hold up to both high and low temps for years. Hardware store will most likely have small tubes of GE Silicone II for about $4. Just be careful applying it, as it can be very messy and is tough to clean up once it has cured. Solvent alcohol cleans it up nicely before it cures.

I second Bob and Jack.

Me too. Used silicone for years. There is a silicone solvent, but it's nasty.

Brock

Masking tape is also handy to keep the silicone off of the places you don't want it.

Jack

I have found a good clear epoxy adhesive and at a reasonable price. In the UK it's marketed as "Araldite Super-Ceramic and glass"; I don't know if it will be called that in the US. The carton says that Araldite is a registered trademark of Vantico AG, Basel, Switzerland. It's crystal clear, dries without bubbles, has a temperature range from -50C to +65C (I think that's -122F to +149F) and sells for £1.49 (approximately $2.00) for an 8ml pack (2 x 4ml tubes to mix together). You mix for 45 seconds and it remains workable for 4 minutes. Support the joint for 10 mins and allow 1 hour before rough handling. I can guarantee that it's impossible to take apart after the hour! (I didn't support one piece properly and the joint slipped). It's solvent free and water resistant.
Technical info from the pack (which I didn't understand, just know it works) is:
Reaction product: bisphenol A (epichlorhydrin); epoxy resin (number average molecular weight <- 700); and N(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-1-3-propylenediamine.
For any UK readers who are interested, I got it in Maplins electronics store (in the hobby section).
Cheryl

Thanks to everyone who answered my question about clear adhesive. I took the advice, went to my local hardware store and picked up some GE Silicone ll which withstands temperatures (once fully cured) up to 400F.

Will send in an image of the sconces soon so you can see the results.

Thanks again

Robin

Robin Evans wrote:Thanks to everyone who answered my question about clear adhesive. I took the advice, went to my local hardware store and picked up some GE Silicone ll which withstands temperatures (once fully cured) up to 400F.

Will send in an image of the sconces soon so you can see the results.

Thanks again

Robin

Robin

I have learned a few silicone tricks. First get a glass of watery dish soap (as opposed to soapy water). Dip your finger in the soap in order to tool the silicone. Also mask out any nearby areas that you don't want to get messy.

Bert Weiss wrote: Dip your finger in the soap in order to tool the silicone.

Alrighty, Bert... so explain "tool" in this context... is it defined as "spreading the stuff around?"

xxxooo
LiteralGirl
P.S. Glad you got home easily. Your class in DC must've been blessed by John Ritter or something... firing away in the face of the blasts...

PDXBarbara (Bader) wrote:

Bert Weiss wrote: Dip your finger in the soap in order to tool the silicone.

Alrighty, Bert... so explain "tool" in this context... is it defined as "spreading the stuff around?"


xxxooo
LiteralGirl
P.S. Glad you got home easily. Your class in DC must've been blessed by John Ritter or something... firing away in the face of the blasts...

Yes that's it. Somebody taught me to lick my finger and then work the silicone. I felt pretty stupid cleaning black silicone off of my teeth.


The end result was that there was less traffic for 2 days. Power stayed on in the center city.

I'm not home though. I have a job this week consulting for a company that bought a Moretti fuser/ slumper/ sink former kiln. I go and see it on Monday. This is going to be fun. It is essentially capable of forming glass in such a way that I look at it and wonder "how the hell did they do that?"

Araldite Super-Ceramic and glass

I used to do glass & china repair in another incarnation & the reference material I have recommends using Devcon 2-ton epoxy as the North American version of this product.
I am not sure they are identical but I know they are very close & it is a great product.

Not sure about high heat but it will take some heat with no problems & is very resistant to yellowing.