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I'm attempting a number of projects with 1/4 inch float glass and hopefully graduating to thicker, say 3/8 - 1/2 inch later. I understand there are cutters available that are specially made for cutting these thicknesses, producing a deeper score and perhaps tapping along the way. Can anyone heartily recommend a good cutter for 1/4 inch or greater float glass? On C.R.Laurence website I see a Toyo TC600SVB Heavy Glass Cutter and they recommend a power breaker to go along with it; has anyone used these?

-- Cathy

Hi Cathy

we use diamond tip glass cutter.
wipe some kerosene on the glass before cutting helps a lot.

Nelson

cahearn wrote:I'm attempting a number of projects with 1/4 inch float glass and hopefully graduating to thicker, say 3/8 - 1/2 inch later. I understand there are cutters available that are specially made for cutting these thicknesses, producing a deeper score and perhaps tapping along the way. Can anyone heartily recommend a good cutter for 1/4 inch or greater float glass? On C.R.Laurence website I see a Toyo TC600SVB Heavy Glass Cutter and they recommend a power breaker to go along with it; has anyone used these?

-- Cathy

To my knowledge, there are only two thick glass cutters out there: The Toyo and the Bohle. They actually have a flatter angle on the wheel than a regular cutter, but cutting 1/4 or 3/8 shouldn't be a problem for a regular cutter. 1/2" to 3/4 really needs the help of the flatter wheel and the compound action breaker. BTW, I have the Toyo cutter and breaker if you want to try them.

Tony

Cathy, here is some info on glass cutters.

127 deg wheel is for 3mm
135 deg for 3 & 4mm
145 deg for 5 & 6mm
155 deg for 8, 10 & 12mm
165 deg for 15, 19 & 25mm

As Cahearn said, you can get a Toyo 600 svb
That is a 155 deg wheel that vibrates as you cut. The wheel vibrates as you cut the glass, effectively becuase the wheel goes a little deeper into the glass. It is in the axle/wheel that vibrates.(that is how it was explained to me) I have used these wheels and found they are okay. But I prefer a standard Toyo 600 RR.
I cut glass all day and so the 600svb is no easier for me. But to new comers to heavy wieght it makes life easier. Life will also be easier if use a power breaker too. these just even out the pressure applied to either side of the score when you break it.
I wish could be closer to some of you because I know some neat tricks with heavy glass.

John, That sounds like an invitation. I'll be sure to give you a call when I'm down your way next. - Haydo

So can I ask a correlary Q? What about Thick, heavily textured glass. I mean glass without a flat surface. Are any of the cutters out there worthwhile, or just stick with the Diamond band saw or similar?

Greg

Cathy

My recommendation is the Toyo Custom grip tap wheel cutter. It is my favorite cutter that I have ever owned. I use it to cut 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" float, all the time, with no problems.

Greg

If the glass is smooth enough for the cutter to make a consistent score, the glass can be cut with a wheel. If the cutter can't make intimate contact, a saw is necessary. I cut kiln carved glass on the top surface without problems. I imagine that it wouldn't work on the bottom side.

John wrote: I wish could be closer to some of you because I know some neat tricks with heavy glass.

Can't you explain them at all? I'm always looking for tips for cutting thick glass.
Amy

Amy on Salt Spring wrote:

John wrote: I wish could be closer to some of you because I know some neat tricks with heavy glass.

Can't you explain them at all? I'm always looking for tips for cutting thick glass.
Amy

Amy

What are you trying to do?

I just had a very interesting experience teaching heavy glass cutting. Essentially I placed my tools in the hands of students who ranged from relatively inexperienced to professional. They all did very well. The person who had the most trouble was a pro and he had some bad habits relative to cutting heavy glass.

See if you can get Bert to show you his cool score-n-torch technique

It was one of the cooler things I saw at WGW

- Paul

Bert Weiss wrote: What are you trying to do?

I just had a very interesting experience teaching heavy glass cutting. Essentially I placed my tools in the hands of students who ranged from relatively inexperienced to professional. They all did very well. The person who had the most trouble was a pro and he had some bad habits relative to cutting heavy glass.

Just get consistent results, esp. when cutting long but not wide pieces. Sometimes it goes well, sometimes not. I'm not a particularly strong upper body person so when trying to get the score to run I sometimes wish I could get Mr. Schwarzenegger to come over--but I believe he is a little busy these days...
Amy

Amy on Salt Spring wrote:

Bert Weiss wrote: What are you trying to do?

I just had a very interesting experience teaching heavy glass cutting. Essentially I placed my tools in the hands of students who ranged from relatively inexperienced to professional. They all did very well. The person who had the most trouble was a pro and he had some bad habits relative to cutting heavy glass.

Just get consistent results, esp. when cutting long but not wide pieces. Sometimes it goes well, sometimes not. I'm not a particularly strong upper body person so when trying to get the score to run I sometimes wish I could get Mr. Schwarzenegger to come over--but I believe he is a little busy these days...
Amy

2 tricks. First if you want a thin strip, first cut a strip twice as wide and then cut it in half. That always works better than cutting a thin strip off of a wide piece.

The other is to use the Toyo heavy glass running pliers. They have some mechanical advantage.

Haydo, yes you can consider that an invitation. How's a few drinks and a bbq sound?

john

Amy, as Bert said cut your peices in half.
If you work in halves, it is easier to have equal amounts of wieght either side to produce a clean edge. If you are taking off a trim say 20mm wide off 10mm some people find it easier to "tap" open the score half way with a hammer (half way through the thickness but running full length of the score) then piler off. this works best for 15mm to 25mm glass. You can use an ordinary hammer but a home made copper one is best I find.

The Toyo 600svb would suit you quite well if you do not have the strength of Arnie. Due to the "vibrating wheel" it helps you score better. I have one here at home I do not use If you want it you can have it. Also you can make your own cutter handle. Get an old door knob cut your plastic cutter down to fit inside the handle screw it in place there you go. Great for people with arthritis. I have seen a few of these done and they work very well.

A mechanical breking tool is also an advantage, I don't know where you are situated but a lot of glass tool suppliers should have various breakout tools avalible.

John

I'm looking into getting the heavy glass running pliers Bert recommended, I'll look at that Toyo 600svb too, thanks. I don't have arthritis, just puny girl arms! I don't have trouble with scoring or with breaking regular thickness glass, just the thick stuff. The long but not wide pieces I was talking about were more in the range of 20" by 4" or thereabouts. I've had some success with using my strong husband to hold down the piece while I try to get the score to run. Maybe the tools will help me be able to do it without him.
-A

If you get a good score just give the start a tap with your hammer then place a timber wedge under the score press down and ta da you should get an even break. (pressuming either side of the score is even.

John