WarmGlass.com

Hi gang of glass

I slumped in a bullseye ceramic mold that I had bought at a show. I put a few coats of kiln wash over it and then the glass (bullseye- double rolled opalescent- with some stringers) set the kiln at 1250 on speed 3 with a 5 min hold. It got all miss shapened the edges are sharp as well -pointed...ouch

What happened to my new square bowl ?

Me kim

Did you fuse the stringers to the glass, then slump, or try to do everything in one step?

You might want to spend some time reading the tutorial on the website: http://www.warmglass.com/Basic.htm

twinkler2 wrote:Hi gang of glass

I slumped in a bullseye ceramic mold that I had bought at a show. I put a few coats of kiln wash over it and then the glass (bullseye- double rolled opalescent- with some stringers) set the kiln at 1250 on speed 3 with a 5 min hold. It got all miss shapened the edges are sharp as well -pointed...ouch

What happened to my new square bowl ?

Me kim

I think that there is going to be a flood of questions like this in the future, as a new generation of kiln workers start using these idiot-proof, even your dog can do it, plug and play, pre-programmed, no experience necessary kilns.

Ranting about them will probably have about the same effect that the ranting that occurred at the advent of microwave ovens. Zilch. Nada. Zip.

However . . . I would strongly suggest that you learn to LOOK in your kiln and know that your glass is as you wanted it before you turn it off, or down. With experience, you will be able to understand what is happening with the glass under heat. Take a class. Brock

as 1 of this new generation (makes me sound younger, tho, i like that!) i would love to learn more about firing before i buy my own idiot-proof kiln.... can any of you recommend weekend tutorials or instructors in the southeast? ...say within a few hours (driving distance) of Atlanta or Charlotte?

(& what are your favorite best (somewhat current) books for beginning hobbyists who want to learn about the science of glass w/o getting another graduate degree??)

thanks....marla

If by mis-shapen you mean that the straight sides are now bowed in, that is typical for a square sided bowl mold. The glass at the corner is better supported by the mold than it is along the sides.

A little roughness (ie, it doesn't feel smooth running a finger over it) along the glass edge in contact with the mold is not unusual. Actual needles normally occur if

A) Too hot a temperature has been used.

Probably not the problem as 1250F is a normal slumping temperature for Bullseye.

B) Ramped up at too fast a rate.

Unfortunately, speed 3 doesn't convey any information, and you may not have any more than a verbal description of it.

C) Glass is hanging up on the surface it's sitting on.

A few coats of kiln wash should be enough, as long as you are sure that the edge of the mold is covered.

For completeness sake, none of this disagrees with the prior comments made by Brad and Brock.

The implication that anything can be done in a kiln using one of 3 preprogrammed firing schedules is like implying that 3 sizes of bluejeans are enough to adequately fit everyone. And when problems arise, it's really not the fault of the person who relied on what was implied.

Nothing substitutes for looking at process temperatures.

The tutorials are good, but a sense of propriety seems to stop Brad from mentioning that his book, which can be ordered on this site, is the best available tutorial book for beginners and beyond. So, if you cannot take a class as Brock suggests, order the book and read the tutorials while you wait for it to come.

Jerry

marla wrote:as 1 of this new generation (makes me sound younger, tho, i like that!) i would love to learn more about firing before i buy my own idiot-proof kiln.... can any of you recommend weekend tutorials or instructors in the southeast? ...say within a few hours (driving distance) of Atlanta or Charlotte?

(& what are your favorite best (somewhat current) books for beginning hobbyists who want to learn about the science of glass w/o getting another graduate degree??)

thanks....marla

Arrowmont School of Crafts in Gatlinburg TN, (4.5 hours by car, north) has a fusing program. It's a very well run, long estabalished craft school. There will be classes there this August. AND, you get to see Gatlinburg, a don't miss destination. AND, Dollywood is only 15 minutes away. Yee Hah!

Billy Bob Brock

I'll second that! Arrowmont is a great place to take classes. It is in the foothills of the Smokey Mountains, lots of studios in other mediums to inspire you. This will be my third year teaching fusing there- I'll be there in June.

I don't think the catalog for 2004 is out yet but you can check out the site. http://www.arrowmont.org

In the meantime - read Brad's book. It is invaluable.

Iza

Hey twinkler.....I too am new at fusing....Although a ceramic artist who has used a kiln alot, the fusing methods were new to me...I bought Brad's book, which I must say is WONDERFUL for beginners....It is definitely going to always be my glass Bible.....I would definitely suggest you get it. I have used it so many times and am now finally taking a course....I was able to fuse some really cool things so far with the book, my kiln manual, and as everyone else says, watching the progression of the pieces and keeping a great diary on each firing.....When something new has come about, I immediately check the book and the answer has been there.....good luck....

twinkler2 wrote:Hi gang of glass

I slumped in a bullseye ceramic mold that I had bought at a show. I put a few coats of kiln wash over it and then the glass (bullseye- double rolled opalescent- with some stringers) set the kiln at 1250 on speed 3 with a 5 min hold. It got all miss shapened the edges are sharp as well -pointed...ouch

What happened to my new square bowl ?

Me kim

it's a silly question, but did you use only 1 layer of glass? this is the most usual cause of needling. you need to fuse 2 layers together, and then slump that, or do a lot of edge working after it comes out of the kiln.

Perhaps there's something else going on here though. You shouldn't be getting needled edges at only 1250. They should still be almost as square as fresh cut glass. The description sounds as though the glass got much hotter than that. This was opalescent glass, so it may not be glass designed for fusing. I think we can't really help all that much with this without a lot more information, perhaps information that she doesn't know.

I figured it out
read the book

as soon as I figure out how to work the digital camera AND post a picture...I'll let you see a picture of my piece

thanks for your help
me kim