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Hi all! Due to a HD-crash I lost this information: Which Artista(Desag)-glass is NOT compatible with BE ?
Further some more questions and requests: From another hobbyist I learn that some “normalâ€

Well Janus, as I can´t afford imported Spectrum glass, that is the only "art glass" we have here in Brazil, I work with float all time. We don´t have colored float also, so I have to paint the float.
That is all I can do, and I can assure you that I have lots of fun with not so much money...
Of course my pices will never be as good as all the art pieces I see here all the time, but I´m learning a lot, and I believe now that "need "is the mother of creativity.
Luiza

Most glass will fuse to itself without too much problem, in my experience, and you can do quite a lot creatively that way. (Proper temperatures for each will require some experimenting.) Spectrum (and other glasses) tend to devit more when they are not tested fuse-compatible. Just use borax or other overspray on everything you fuse. We paint on almost any glass except those few exceptions that either strike or turn solid, and usually don't experience devit because of the lower firing temps.

Janus,

Float is rather inexpensive for experimenting. Also, I get "T" glass when Spectrum has it available. It's not cheap, but it's less expensive than their non "T" glass. The Spectrum Baroque glasses can be fused to clear Spectrum 96. I do hundreds of fish with the Baroque glasses by fusing them to clear 96.

You can read about "T" glass on Spectrum's website.

Have fun experimenting.

Judy

Luiza wrote:Well Janus, as I can´t afford imported Spectrum glass, that is the only "art glass" we have here in Brazil, I work with float all time. We don´t have colored float also, so I have to paint the float.
That is all I can do, and I can assure you that I have lots of fun with not so much money...
Of course my pices will never be as good as all the art pieces I see here all the time, but I´m learning a lot, and I believe now that "need "is the mother of creativity.
Luiza

Luiza

I only use float and enamels in my work, and I believe that the process of hand painting and the element of sculpture make for more interesting work than all that dichro and factory made color.

Bert

[quote="Janus"]Hi all! Due to a HD-crash I lost this information: Which Artista(Desag)-glass is NOT compatible with BE ?
Further some more questions and requests: From another hobbyist I learn that some “normalâ€

When I was at Camp Colton in 1992, Jay Jett did extensive tests with GNA, and found all of it he tested was 90COE plus or minus .5. Based on this, I've been using GNA since 1992, mostly as a base glass for fused tiles. The GNA is fairly hard, and I've found it useful for keeping the exact shapes I want. My pieces are usually fired between 1400-1500 degrees F and are between 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch thick, often with significant thermal gradients between the individual pieces of glass as the tiles are more-or-less sculptural. I anneal at between 950 and 1000 degrees F, usually for one hour. I know of one other studio that also uses GNA in combination with Bullseye, Wasser, etc.; their work is mostly fused and slumped bowls. They've had one or two compatability problems over the last ten years or so, but I haven't encountered any. Now I'm beginning to wonder if I've just been lucky. I wouldn't expect that the GNA available in the US is a different COE than GNA available in the UK, so I'm not sure what might be happening here.

Ohhhhh, in this new board you HAVE to insert an message !!
So - once again - thanks to everybody for your help! Janus

Mike Byers wrote: The GNA is fairly hard, and I've found it useful for keeping the exact shapes I want.

I have read that a small percentage of GNA mixed with BE will help with the problem of the glass sliding down the mould in Pate-de-Verre.Colin