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I glued rods onto glass plates for 'feet' (as shown in Brads book) using LOCTITE glue - per instructions from a glass artist on WWB- and all the legs stayed 'moist and sticky and coming off.........I have a show this weekend..............PLEASE HELP.........First of all, how do I get the glue completely off and what is the strongest glue for glass to glass and rods(which are plexiglass) to glass...................DESPERATE!!!!!!

what exactly did you use for adhesive? and what does the label state about how to cure it and how long does it take?

if you used UV glue, take it outside into the sunlight. otherwise it'll never cure.

plexiglass is tricky to glue. you probably will not be able to get the old glue off without ruining it. are you sure it is plexi? could it be lexan? laquer thinner will probably get off the glue. sorry. rosanna

btw: i'd use clear silicone. spread an even coating on the rod, place on the piece, tape in place, and don't touch for 24 hours.

squish it down just a scosh to get the air bubbles out, but not squeezing all the silicone out. clean up the edges with the tip of a razor knife before it skims over.

I put my vote in for silicone as well--strong and clear. Just used it myself recently to connect glass panels to both acrylic and aluminum and it worked perfectly and doesn't show.
Amy

The glue I used is called Loctite E-30CL Epoxy adheasive. Takes 4 hrs to cure. I left it for three days and when I went to pick up the piece the glued attachments were sliding around like I had just put it on.....I have a 20 inch round and wanted toi attach a fused piece onto that which is in the form of a curve mold BE....weighs 2.5 lbs.....will silicone hold that weight? It should........They use silicone to hang wall mirrors? Thought I would try uv glue and light but was told it wont work on opal white - just translucent glass I bought that loctite glue from Mcmaster Carr...They said it for glass to glass and guess what.....WRONG. Makes me so angry when they give bad info..... borosilicate glass are the rods......Im so mad I cant speak straight..........

doctac wrote:The glue I used is called Loctite E-30CL Epoxy adheasive. Takes 4 hrs to cure. I left it for three days and when I went to pick up the piece the glued attachments were sliding around like I had just put it on.....I have a 20 inch round and wanted toi attach a fused piece onto that which is in the form of a curve mold BE....weighs 2.5 lbs.....will silicone hold that weight? It should........They use silicone to hang wall mirrors? Thought I would try uv glue and light but was told it wont work on opal white - just translucent glass I bought that loctite glue from Mcmaster Carr...They said it for glass to glass and guess what.....WRONG. Makes me so angry when they give bad info..... borosilicate glass are the rods......Im so mad I cant speak straight..........

Doc

Sounds like the epoxy was mixed wrong or the hardener was defective. Acetone is the solvent for the epoxy. It might also dissolve the plastic though.

Im so mad I cant speak straight

Mcmaster Carr is a kind of general merchandiser and bargain-like at that, I don't know what you expect from their employees- the co. probably doesn't pay them enough to tell you the right kind of glue to use. I've read this thread twice and I still don't quite understand what you are gluing. Borosilicate rods onto soda glass? Are the Plexiglass items little feet? Are they glued to the borosilicate? Many glues attack plastics. If you want one glue to use on glass to glass and glass to plexiglass why not call up 3M or a 3M distributor and talk to their techs. Those people know their glues and they can tell you if it will work for your application. Maybe their glue will cost more but think how much work it would have just saved you.

I know. These things piss me off too but you just have to resign yourself that most retailers now just want bodies to stock the shelves and ring up sales at the lowest wage they can get away with. This does not guarantee you any competent service. Try asking someone in the paint dept. at lowes the difference between Laquer and Shellac!

Amy on Salt Spring wrote:I put my vote in for silicone as well--strong and clear. Just used it myself recently to connect glass panels to both acrylic and aluminum and it worked perfectly and doesn't show.
Amy

Amy,
I have a question about silcone.
There are so many on the market. What silcone do you use. Silcone adhesive? Thanks...Claudia

Claudia, I use silicone made by GE, get it at the closest hardware which happens to be Sears. My acrylics guy says he tested them all and concluded that this was the best. He has pieces that are huge and have been outdoors for 20 years without the silicone joins degenerating. That's good enough for me!

Barbara

E-30CL is Loctite's recommended epoxy for glass-to-glass bonds. According to their site, the phone number for Loctite Technical Information Service is 800-562-8483. Talk to them about how to remove the current material, the materials you want to bond, and any tips they might have on the use of the mix nozzle and the dispenser gun.

Claudia Whitten wrote:

Amy on Salt Spring wrote:I put my vote in for silicone as well--strong and clear. Just used it myself recently to connect glass panels to both acrylic and aluminum and it worked perfectly and doesn't show.
Amy

Amy,
I have a question about silcone.
There are so many on the market. What silcone do you use. Silcone adhesive? Thanks...Claudia

Just the regular stuff from the hardware store--nothing fancy. However some of them say "Sealer" and some say "Sealer and Adhesive" and I use the "Sealer and Adhesive". If there is some slight performance variation from brand to brand it isn't enough to make any difference for what I am doing. If its for outdoor use (mine aren't) I believe they say how long they are guarenteed to work on the package. If you can get a 3M brand I would go for that--they have consistently high quality products.
Amy

[quote="Claudia Whitten
Amy,
I have a question about silcone.
There are so many on the market. What silcone do you use. Silcone adhesive? Thanks...Claudia[/quote]


I use GE Silicone II because it holds well and also because it's the only brand I can get with a screw-off tip. If you're not using silicone often this is importnat. With a screw-off tip you can unscrew the tip, pick out the silicone plug with a paper clip and proceeed to use the rest of the tube's contents. If you can't get the tip off remove a plug of set up silicone, the rest of your tube will be unusable when you go back to it a couple months later. This plug forms even with the tip cover properly on.

Carol

Thanks to all for your help..........

http://www.dymax.com is a site all about adhesives for all types of materials that may be useful.
Cheryl

doctac wrote:The glue I used is called Loctite E-30CL Epoxy adheasive. Takes 4 hrs to cure. I left it for three days and when I went to pick up the piece the glued attachments were sliding around like I had just put it on.....I have a 20 inch round and wanted toi attach a fused piece onto that which is in the form of a curve mold BE....weighs 2.5 lbs.....will silicone hold that weight? It should........They use silicone to hang wall mirrors? Thought I would try uv glue and light but was told it wont work on opal white - just translucent glass I bought that loctite glue from Mcmaster Carr...They said it for glass to glass and guess what.....WRONG. Makes me so angry when they give bad info..... borosilicate glass are the rods......Im so mad I cant speak straight..........

I agree with Bert. If this didn't set up then it wasn't mixed properly. We use this glue all the time and it works great. The trick is to get a 50/50 mix, which requires the right gun with the right plunger. You are right that the UV glue won't work with white opal. The epoxy should be able to glue any glass together, it shouldn't matter that it's boro to BE.

Tina