WarmGlass.com

I have seen some beautiful work with photographic images on glass. If I am not mistaken the glass is clear. I don't really know if that matters or not. However, I wondered what process this was. I know it can somewhat be done through silk-screening but I was curious if anyone knew more about it.
My son is taking photography in school and he started me thinking....
Lesley

LesleyNolan wrote:I have seen some beautiful work with photographic images on glass. If I am not mistaken the glass is clear. I don't really know if that matters or not. However, I wondered what process this was. I know it can somewhat be done through silk-screening but I was curious if anyone knew more about it.
My son is taking photography in school and he started me thinking....
Lesley

There is such a thing as photosensitive glass. I forgot where I read about it. You might do a google search for "photosensitive glass"
Jim

Most of the work in photos-on-glass are done with halftone images. The latest rage is using a laset to etch the images into the surface of the glass. Alternatively, photos (halftones) can be applied with enamels and silkscreening, or enamels and sandblasting, or just sandblasting. All of these will stand the test of time. There is also a photographic process where light-sensitive emulsion is applied to the glass and exposed like a color print. It is then developed using traditional developing chemicals. The emulsion is still relatively soft and will deteriorate over time.

Hope this helps

Tony

Brock, Mary van Cline is the artist I was thinking about but couldn't remember her name. Thank-you for the link.
Tony, I remember you showing a piece you had done with white enamel on black...I think or maybe the other way around. You brought it with you to WGW II. Was that the half tone you were talking about?
It seemed to me that you did it in the same process as Avery uses. Am I right about that?
Thanks
Lesley

It's a similar process to what Avery does, except I sandblast the halftone through a solid fused enamel surface rather than silkscreening the halftone with enamels.
http://www.amsmith.com/newwork/halftone2.jpg
Tony

I've recently seen photos on glass as well. They look like decals to me but it got me thinking. I've got some photos of my husband when he was a child and I was wondering if there was some way to fuse these on the glass. Is there some kind of way to transfer a photo to a decal and print it out on your printer and then fuse it on the glass? I know you'd have to reverse the image in your photo editor first.

Dianne

There was a recent post by someone (retired ME Prof from WV) who will be introducing a new photo transfer process at Corning sometime soon. Search the recent archives for mor information.

Tony

Do a search for Wallace Venable and you will see what he wrote.

Tony,
Thanks so much for that info. I checked out the link and it's amazing. I can't wait to see how this technique will develop after people start learning it and applying it.

Dianne

Photobrasive has a line of masks that you can run through your ink jet printer, and they say it can do halftones comparable to newspapers. It's developed with UV, no more hot water spraying. I have a box of it that came in a few weeks ago, and when I get to experimenting will post the results.

Oh, this is sounding more involved and like it could be over my head. I inherited a sandblaster last year, however, it's in storage until I have a place to use it. I was hoping that something would be simple like an acid etching chemical that might peel off photo paper or something like that. Or a rub on in concept. I wanted to give my in-laws a picture of my husband when he was a child as a xmas present. I was just going to use a black and white image or those brown tinted aged looking photos and sandwich it between 2 pieces of glass and solder the edges. (Sounds like just a simple thing but I was going to jazz it up in my Groovyglass style with wire, nuggets, and beads if the piece called for it in the end.) I just thought having an image directly fused on or in the glass would be totally unique. It sounds like this is an upcoming technique and one I'm certainly going to watch out for. Hopefully it will be easy enough for everyone to learn.

Thanks again for all your info,
Dianne

jim simmons wrote:

LesleyNolan wrote:

There is such a thing as photosensitive glass. I forgot where I read about it. You might do a google search for "photosensitive glass"
Jim

Check out OCR. http://www.glasscolor.com
Barbara

I went to the glasscolor.com site. They have photosensitive glass. But how do you use it?

Dianne

Groovyglass wrote:I went to the glasscolor.com site. They have photosensitive glass. But how do you use it?

Dianne

There are instructions: http://www.glasscolor.com/catalog/color ... 80Inst.asp

In 25 words or less, you keep it in the dark, work it (and presumably anneal it,) put it in the dark until you're ready to expose it, expose it, and anneal it for developing.

- Bev

Bev Brandt wrote:

Groovyglass wrote:I went to the glasscolor.com site. They have photosensitive glass. But how do you use it?

Dianne

There are instructions: http://www.glasscolor.com/catalog/color ... 80Inst.asp

In 25 words or less,
- Bev

35 , but still correct.
Jim

Bev, thanks for the briefing. It still sounds like something I'm not able to do. I've got a small place and the only room in the house that would be able to get that dark would be the bathroom. Don't think I can bring the kiln in there. I read the instructions. I don't have UV light right now either so I think I'll just stay with the first way I was going to do this project and that is to put it between 2 pieces of glass and solder around it.

Thanks for all the insights. Maybe someday I'll be able to try this. Just can't fit in something like this as a gift this year though.

Dianne

Groovyglass wrote: I think I'll just stay with the first way I was going to do this project and that is to put it between 2 pieces of glass and solder around it.

Dianne

As you may know, the possibility of flux fumes between the glass is a concern. If using foil, I would suggest pre-tinning the foil-wrapped pieces, then clean the glass, assemble, and solder the pieces together without using additional flux.

Hello,
Thanks for that reminder. I wasn't thinking about the solder fumes damaging the photo over time. Actually I have very very very thin glass and I can foil the 2 pieces of glass with the pic sandwiched between with one piece of foil. Flux and fumes will not even reach the pic. This glass is so thin that I can snap it between my fingers without even making a score. It also had a tendency to break where you don't want it to break. I'm hoping I can keep this a secret as they are staying with us for the next 6 weeks most of the time. They are here from Malta.

Dianne