WarmGlass.com

I have a project in which I need to cast a long thin s-curve line of glass. It will be about 1.5 inches wide and 35 inches tall. If you look at the cross section, it would look like a triangle. The depth would be about 1.5 inches as well.

Just looking at the specs makes me think the end result will break? The glass would be mounted on a back board so I suppose I could anchor it at multiple times.

My questions is. Can I add something to the glass to strengthen it (metal, fibers, etc) and also, could I place stainless steel rods into the mold as I melt the glass in the kiln in order to leave a hole when finished in which I can mount through? Any metals simular to the COE of glass?


Thanks

hoknok wrote:I have a project in which I need to cast a long thin s-curve line of glass. It will be about 1.5 inches wide and 35 inches tall. If you look at the cross section, it would look like a triangle. The depth would be about 1.5 inches as well.

Just looking at the specs makes me think the end result will break? The glass would be mounted on a back board so I suppose I could anchor it at multiple times.

My questions is. Can I add something to the glass to strengthen it (metal, fibers, etc) and also, could I place stainless steel rods into the mold as I melt the glass in the kiln in order to leave a hole when finished in which I can mount through? Any metals simular to the COE of glass?


Thanks

Whatever your name is

I think that adding a metal inclusion will likely weaken the glass. The triangular shape is a strong one. 35" is not particularly long. Just do it.

(I don't mean to be snide about the name thing, but I don't really like to help anonymous posters, however I did answer you.) This site is configured to protect you from spammers and to create a community of glass cookers. If we don't know one another by name it is not much of a community, is it?

Thanks Bert for answering my questions.

I found your web site through the WetCanvas board and have gleaned so much info. I have been working in clay-metal-plastic for about 20 years and have swithched over to glass "experimentation" for the last two years. I am slowly incorporating glass into my work as I grow more confident with using glass in my kiln.

As for my name Hoknok (sounds like "Hawk-Knock"), it is the name I have used for about 18 years now. My birth name is listed in the member profile section. Most people call me Hoknok, especially in the art community.

I hope to post more since I greatly enjoy the advice and support.

Thanks!

Hoknok
a.k.a. Mike Hawkins

Has anyone combined metal within glass with successful results in the kiln?

currently I have been using float glass and although "hit and miss" I have enjoyed some of my results.

hoknok wrote:Has anyone combined metal within glass with successful results in the kiln?

Yes. It's a frequent technique. Foils, wires, and very thin sheets work best. You can use copper, silver, gold, aluminum, brass, and many other metals. The main thing is not to use metal that's too thick.

I have had a lot of trouble with wire that is too curly. I mean, I have created elaborate patterns in fine silver (fairly thin gauge wire) and the glass doesn't seem like a lot of curves going in different directions (e.g., S shapes). I have tried annealing the wire, pickling and cleaning very well and each time I opened the kiln I would see the most beautiful work and then I would hear the screech of stressed out glass.

I have one more experiment to try before I call it a day on this work. I have been using a manual kiln and as soon as I get my new, digitally controlled kiln going, I'm going to try a very conservative annealing schedule to see if it fixes my issue.

Regards,

Melissa

I just opened up my kiln this weekend and saw the results of my "experiments". The firing I had completed was for some ceramic tiles I was finishing for a client but since i had some free space, I threw in a shelf load of various glass test.

I got some interesting results with the copper pipe cap I placed in the middle of some found glass. Where the light blue-clear glass touched the copper, it all "leached" green. I was wondering if copper wire did the same thing for people?

Also, I had made a test mold out of some found red sand in which to cast my s-curve glass part of the sculpture. I added water to the sand, boxed it arround with kiln post and then carved into the very fine sand my test "U" shaped curve. I ussed float glass and the kiln was fired to cone 04. Actually I changed the end temp to be close to 1995 F since copper melts at 1981 deg. Anyway, the glass game out fine and much stronger than I though it would.

So I plan to make the final mold out of Calcium Aluminate and TAB grog. Then I will use this mold to test both float glass and Bullseye.

Understand for me, I am still "playing" with glass and find the whole thing very fascinating... even the "mistakes" are full of knowledge. And for those who want to know... Mellow Yello glass melts with better results than Coke glass in a stainless steel container. The coke glass all cracked while the Mellow Yello - green colored glass looks very stable .. so far!

Hoknok
There's a gallery (sorry, i've forgotten which one) featuring a glass artist who makes elaborate structures (horses, etc., with great detail) who uses wire structures and evidently fuses the glass to the wire ....
So it can be done ....
Haven't a clue .... how he does it. And don't think the site specified which wire he used (big help, hey?) .... but was impressed with his work.
Chae