WarmGlass.com

there is this woman artist, that does float casted glass, she uses oxides, and other things and was described as making things where accidents were important,,,,,if anyone knows the link to this website, it would appreciate it,,,,or to any people casting float as well, thanks,,,rodney

Rodney...........you're looking for Irene Frolich.

http://www.glassartcanada.ca/irenefrolic/index.html

She's one of my idols in the glass world - hangs right up there with the work of Bertil Valien.

Nah, she's way better than that guy!

You can do that with float???
INcredible.
Nikki

Rodney........do you know Irene is giving a demo and presentation at GAS June 2004 in New Orleans?

She's teaching at Pilchuck this summer too.

I should add, not all of her work is cast float. The stuff that looks white, that is cast with a lot of copper powder on the surface of the mold, is the cast float I believe.

Waaay back in 1992 I was in Ann Robinson's casting class at Pilchuck, where I met Irene Froelich, who was also in the class. Lucky me! I had to comment on this one, because I know her technique and have her casting schedule for plate (float) glass, which she uses almost exclusively. The "white" castings are plate glass, devitrified. She devitrifies deliberately, as the effect is stunning (in her work!) The use of copper inclusions or copper carbonate produces a lovely blue.

can you tell me the best way to get divit on the float glass,

thanks

rodney

Colin Lowe from Spab-land shared this with me........

Now Rodney this is highly technical, arcane knowledge from SDS (the secret devit societytm), so you must take extra care with giving out this info.

You cannot give to just anybody - only to true believers and followers of SDS theories and operations - do you promise? Secret handshake and all????

Spray the glass with clear enamel - right out of the jingle can. If you don't get devit, then you're doing something wrong!

I am not a glass chemist or any thing but isn't devit supposed to cause the piece to eventually disintegrate?

jerry flanary wrote:I am not a glass chemist or any thing but isn't devit supposed to cause the piece to eventually disintegrate?

Devit is technically crystals growing on the surface. In extreme cases it could cause glass to cease to be glass. 99.99% it is just visible scum.

I once tried casting glass bead that they sell for sandblasting. It came out white and fairly opaque. The technique does have some potential and the glass is cheap and easy.

Devit is technically crystals growing on the surface. In extreme cases it could cause glass to cease to be glass. 99.99% it is just visible scum.

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since the divit in its natural state grows on the surface,,,,will there some sort of problem if i spray the clear enamal on small pieces, covering all sides and then casting it,,,will i have divit on the inside of the glass? and will this cause any problem?

thanks,
rodney

Irene is a wonderful artist and a very generous person. Irene gave a presentation at the Glass Art Association of Canada Conference in Red Deer in 2000 that left most of the audience in tears for her sensitive and personal reflections on the Holocaust. Her work is outstanding, as is the thought that goes into it. It was the quintessential talk on why art is important to people.

Since then I have worked with Irene through the Glass Art Association of Canada. She is generous of spirit, insightful, and has challenged me to improve my work. She exudes energy. A lovely woman.

Cheers,

Bob

rodney wrote:Devit is technically crystals growing on the surface. In extreme cases it could cause glass to cease to be glass. 99.99% it is just visible scum.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

since the divit in its natural state grows on the surface,,,,will there some sort of problem if i spray the clear enamal on small pieces, covering all sides and then casting it,,,will i have divit on the inside of the glass? and will this cause any problem?

thanks,
rodney

test

Rodney-

cast your piece, (or better yet, some test pieces), drop the temp down between 1450 and 1300 F, soak. You'll have to test in order to understand control of the process. It may be possible to soak in the devit range on the way up and get it started. I don't know.

Devit is generally thought of as a surface problem in the fusing world. It is crystalization of the components of the glass. It often starts on dust or other particles not cleaned off the glass. But with time at the right temperature it can migrate into the interior of the glass. Veins of devit can be a weak or incompatible zone in a glass body. So you may have to go all the way devitrified if you get started at all. CorningWare, the solid white, tan or brown cookware is actually devitrified glass that has become, technically, ceramic.

I once slumped a clear wine bottle flat.
Then I cut a slice of this fused two layer glass
and refired.
The result was strong white devit on all surfaces
top, bottom and *in between.*

I guess that the bottle was not properly washed
to begin with, but I still wonder the
devit inside.

-lauri

Did you slice w / a saw or a glass cutter?

With a cutter.
The devit layer is about 1 mm thick between clears.

Now I got a grinding tool. Wonder how it looks if I
polish away the outer devit layers

-lauri

lauri wrote:With a cutter.
The devit layer is about 1 mm thick between clears.

Now I got a grinding tool. Wonder how it looks if I
polish away the outer devit layers

-lauri

Look up Brian Blanthorn's web site, especially the bowls. He has done lots of controlled, layered, polished devit work in the past.

Glass sure does the darnedest things.