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Maintaining Geometrical Shapes at Full Fuse
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:27 pm
by Suzan
I've seen work where geometric shapes like squares, diamonds and rectangles maintain their "perfect" corners or points. Whenever I fuse such shapes in my work, the corners or points always round over some; the only way I've been able to retain the perfect shape is to take it only to a tack fuse.
Is there some trick for retaining the sharp corners and points on geometrical shapes at full fuse?
Cheers,
Suzan
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:36 pm
by Brock
Very exact cutting, volume control, and possibly, dams. Bucky
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:52 pm
by Suzan
What does "volume control" refer to?
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 10:08 pm
by Brock
When glass is heated enough, it wants to be about 6-7mm thick, approx. 1/4". If you do not have enough glass for this to occur, the glass will "pull in" and become a shape that IS 1/4" thick. If you have too much, it will "flow out", and again, become a shape that is 1/4" thick.
You can use dams to keep the glass in any shape you prefer, and it will level out at whatever thickness the volume of glass allows. These events occur at a full fuse, over time, and can be stopped at any point. Brock
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 12:17 am
by Mira
I like dams, but I also employ cold-working methods such as cutting, sawing and grinding. When satisfied, fire polish.
Good luck!
Mira
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 1:45 am
by gone
You can also fuse it upside down, especially with irrid which doesn't need sandblasting to get a nice surface.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 11:32 am
by charlie
Els VandenEnde wrote:You can also fuse it upside down, especially with irrid which doesn't need sandblasting to get a nice surface.
yes. lay it out upside down and put a complete sheet on the top. that will hold down the pieces and you won't get any roundovers due to the heat or movement.
this was done upside down for that reason, and then refused with the design up.
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