Quieting an Air Compressor
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Quieting an Air Compressor
I'm stuck keeping my air compressor in my studio (aka garage) and the noise level is very high! I decided to use what I know about noise control (I'm a Certified Industrial Hygienist in my "day job"). The results were great! I achieved an 18 decibel noise reduction! If you would like to see how I built it, check out my web site:
http://www.gregorieglass.com
Click on the "Glass Artist Health & Safety" link, then click on "Health (Noise, Heat, Radiation)" then scroll down. Hope this is helpful! By the way, I spent only $60!
http://www.gregorieglass.com
Click on the "Glass Artist Health & Safety" link, then click on "Health (Noise, Heat, Radiation)" then scroll down. Hope this is helpful! By the way, I spent only $60!
Greg
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Excellent!
It is wonderful to see Somebody talking about safety on their website as well as their glass. Leave it to a Safety Professional, I guess. Nice glass to boot. I have a friend in Tucson w/ a much larger compressor in a similar enclosure but a using a Granger muffler. It's a great solution. Thanks for all the pics.
It is wonderful to see Somebody talking about safety on their website as well as their glass. Leave it to a Safety Professional, I guess. Nice glass to boot. I have a friend in Tucson w/ a much larger compressor in a similar enclosure but a using a Granger muffler. It's a great solution. Thanks for all the pics.
j.
A lack of doubt doesn't lend certainty.
A lack of doubt doesn't lend certainty.
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Re: Quieting an Air Compressor
Hi GregGreg Rawls wrote:I'm stuck keeping my air compressor in my studio (aka garage) and the noise level is very high! I decided to use what I know about noise control (I'm a Certified Industrial Hygienist in my "day job"). The results were great! I achieved an 18 decibel noise reduction! If you would like to see how I built it, check out my web site:
http://www.gregorieglass.com
Click on the "Glass Artist Health & Safety" link, then click on "Health (Noise, Heat, Radiation)" then scroll down. Hope this is helpful! By the way, I spent only $60!
Nice solution
My thoughts R
MayB use plaster board
MayB few more of the vents baffles U made as I would B concerned about heat build up
Is the sound insulation fire proof ?
Is the compressor on soft bace like rubber feet ??
Brian

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I like the idea of baffling the compressor to reduce the noise Greg, but be careful that your compressor doesn't overheat. The compressor head has fins on it to help dissipate heat, but it depends on having free airflow. You may find that you end up with premature failure of your seals.
Tony
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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I second that motion.Tony Smith wrote:I like the idea of baffling the compressor to reduce the noise Greg, but be careful that your compressor doesn't overheat. The compressor head has fins on it to help dissipate heat, but it depends on having free airflow. You may find that you end up with premature failure of your seals.
Tony
And add that fiberglass duct liner would be a better sound absorbing material than the foam and not flamable either. See your firendly HVAC shop for duct liner. Attach with spray adhesive.
Ron
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You can achieve at least a 100% reduction with an oil air compressor. When your oiless one dies, which it will especially enclosed. My new oil compressor you can stand right beside it and carry on a conversation with someone without yelling. Years ago I had put my oiless in a small room under my stairs and it got quite warm in there. Remember oiless compressors have no way to disipate heat other than the surrounding air.
If that air is already hot, your teflon rings in the compressor will fail sooner.
You do have some other good info on your site though
Rick Wilton
If that air is already hot, your teflon rings in the compressor will fail sooner.
You do have some other good info on your site though
Rick Wilton
Rick Wilton
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Re: Quieting an Air Compressor
the generally acceptable way to do this is to build a room outside, insulate the room for sound (double, acoustically isolated walls, etc), and pipe the air into the shop through the wall.Greg Rawls wrote:I'm stuck keeping my air compressor in my studio (aka garage) and the noise level is very high! I decided to use what I know about noise control (I'm a Certified Industrial Hygienist in my "day job"). The results were great! I achieved an 18 decibel noise reduction! If you would like to see how I built it, check out my web site:
http://www.gregorieglass.com
Click on the "Glass Artist Health & Safety" link, then click on "Health (Noise, Heat, Radiation)" then scroll down. Hope this is helpful! By the way, I spent only $60!
building an insulated box for a compressor is a bad idea, especially using insulation used for temperature rather than sound isolation. you should add some sort of forced air duct to that with a blower and a tube from the outside, and a baffled exhaust, which would cause your compressor to have a much better lifespan.
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Gee, I just re-read this and didn't mean to sound flip in any way. Sorry if I did. By the way, I just looked at your work - it's beautiful.Jackie Beckman wrote:Our compressor is loud and so I just showed your set-up to my husband. He says your pistons and rings are going to fail. I thought it looked like a good idea myself, because our compressor is just outside the garage and I'm sure the entire neighborhood can hear it.
Jackie
Jackie
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Thanks for the compliments/suggestions. Let me see if I can answer all the questions:
1) Yes there is heat buildup. I am going to add forced air exhaust this weekend.
2) Sheet rock will work too, but it is fragile. What about cement board? That would work too.
3) Flammability - I need to look into this.
4) "the generally acceptable way to do this is to build a room outside, insulate the room for sound (double, acoustically isolated walls, etc), and pipe the air into the shop through the wall. " THis is what I would do if not for (a) not allowed in my neighborhood (b) too loud for the neighbors.
5) Why would the pisotns fail? I'm adding forced air ventilation
6) Accessing the drain hole is not a problem. Turn off the compressor, open the door, open the drain hole.
"Is the compressor on soft bace like rubber feet ?? "
It sits on rubber gasket. Gives a good seal and provides vibration isolation.
9) "Where are the baffles located in the finished box?? " On the back.
This is an experiment to see what works. I imagine I will improve the design with all the good suggestions.
1) Yes there is heat buildup. I am going to add forced air exhaust this weekend.
2) Sheet rock will work too, but it is fragile. What about cement board? That would work too.
3) Flammability - I need to look into this.
4) "the generally acceptable way to do this is to build a room outside, insulate the room for sound (double, acoustically isolated walls, etc), and pipe the air into the shop through the wall. " THis is what I would do if not for (a) not allowed in my neighborhood (b) too loud for the neighbors.
5) Why would the pisotns fail? I'm adding forced air ventilation
6) Accessing the drain hole is not a problem. Turn off the compressor, open the door, open the drain hole.

It sits on rubber gasket. Gives a good seal and provides vibration isolation.
9) "Where are the baffles located in the finished box?? " On the back.
This is an experiment to see what works. I imagine I will improve the design with all the good suggestions.
Greg
4: build a double box. have the connections between the two walls be as minimal as possible. insulate between the two with a better sound insulation than foam insulation. since there's not much base in compressor noise, it'll be better if you use a light substance like acoustical foam bats or loosely packed fiberglas wall insulation, or even a thin mattress pad. it's the air pockets that trap the noise. if there were a base problem, you'd want something dense in the wall. the noise will get conducted through whatever material you're using to connect the walls of the 2 boxes together, so you want to make them be foam blocks.
you'll still need baffled positive air flow, both in and out.
you'll still need baffled positive air flow, both in and out.
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Greg (and the rest of the gang),
Thank you for sharing this. I normally wear good ear muffs and it has made a huge difference (forget the ear plugs- spend the $30 or so bucks and get some good muffs). This really helps me to decide on where to put the compressor and what I should watch out for. We are lucky enough to have a shed next to the shop so we'll just punch out a hole in the wall and run the lines (keeping the compressor in the shed instead).
Thanks again for sharing!
keiko
Thank you for sharing this. I normally wear good ear muffs and it has made a huge difference (forget the ear plugs- spend the $30 or so bucks and get some good muffs). This really helps me to decide on where to put the compressor and what I should watch out for. We are lucky enough to have a shed next to the shop so we'll just punch out a hole in the wall and run the lines (keeping the compressor in the shed instead).
Thanks again for sharing!

keiko
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I just bought a box of low pressure foam, 30dB earplugs http://www.galeton.com/item_group.asp?G ... egoryID=22 and they are amazing... I'll never use earmuffs again... the muffs don't compare in attenuation and certainly not in comfort.Keiko Okahashi wrote:Greg (and the rest of the gang),
Thank you for sharing this. I normally wear good ear muffs and it has made a huge difference (forget the ear plugs- spend the $30 or so bucks and get some good muffs). This really helps me to decide on where to put the compressor and what I should watch out for. We are lucky enough to have a shed next to the shop so we'll just punch out a hole in the wall and run the lines (keeping the compressor in the shed instead).
Thanks again for sharing!![]()
keiko
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun