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Hi, I use a Quickfire 6 kiln. It seems to me that the pyrometer reads higher than it should, since by the time glass starts to visibly change in it, it is over 1500 Fahrenheit. I use a shelf set right on the bottom of the kiln, and the wire of the pyrometer is up in the top of the dome cover. Could there be a significant temperature difference between where the shelf is and where the pyrometer is taking its reading?

We use 3 of the Quik Fire 6 kilns at the shop where I teach fusing. (I also have one at home.) We noticed that one of the shop kilns was firing differently than the others........my boss took the Paragon kiln maintenace class and adjusted the pyrometer where it read more correctly.
You might contact Paragon for instructions on adjusting the pyrometer. You might first click on the Paragon site above, go to their website and see if there are any technical manuals there......otherwise it will give you contact info.


That is if no one else HERE gives you the "how to" advice on adjustment.

Vernelle

Thanks, I should have thought of that myself. I've downloaded the manual now, and I'll read it. I also found the method (can't remember where now) of checking and calibrating the pyrometer using a cone.

Thanks, I should have thought of that myself. I've downloaded the manual now, and I'll read it. I also found the method (can't remember where now) of checking and calibrating the pyrometer using a cone.

I used to use a Quick Fire 6. I always fired much higher than my larger kilns even after I changed the pyrometer.


Alecia

I have a retired quickfire. My theory was that the kiln heated up so fast that the temp of the air was higher than that of the glass and that's why I got full fuse around 1650 on my pyrometer. The glass was probably just getting up to moving temps.

I wouldn't worry about it.

Mightbewrongthough

B

Hi all,
Just read the threads.
I have never had good luck with my 6 inch pyrometer.
My wholesale supplier even sent me a brand new pyrometer
after I used my kiln for 10 years -
Free of charge.
It is always any where from 50 F off to 150 F off always.,
even the brand new one.
Adjusted.
I have continued to use it with excellent results though.
Peek and ignore the Pyrometer.
Someone on the board had me buy the
Omega HH11 hand held pyrometer. I stick the
end into the bottom of the bee hive carefull not to touch
the element or the glass.
Works like a charm - worth every dollar - unit cost under 100.00.
I added the paragon oven type plug in temperature controller to help me.
I have sold over 1000 pairs of earrings and pins made in it and even
taught with it. It STILL works (don't know why - what a work horse).
That is about all I can say -
I am very sorry I forgot who recommended the Omega to me
They have my Kudos and thanks for life !
Regards
ruth elfering

DB,
Your pryometer is probally fine. If you have never used that kiln before you will find that since it is small the inside air heats up very quickly. The glass does not heat up as quickly so it takes more time to heat up. The glass still moves at the same temp. So, you will have to adjust your program or manual schedule because of the difference of the kilns.
Also, using a cone to calabrate it will not work, because the cone works on a time and heat basis so you will have the same problem.. your kiln air gets hotter faster so the heat and time equasion will be off.
I have some sample schedule for smaller kilns if you are interested.

Thanks, Stuart, and everyone else.

I wonder if the clay cone might possibly work okay for a useful calibration, with the following reasoning: For one thing, I'll put the cone down on the shelf where the glass is, not up in the top of the muffle where pyrometer is. Also, I would think the cone (unlike the air in the kiln) would perhaps heat up at about the same rate as the glass, so that when the cone bends, it might show the temperature the glass is currently at.

Does that make any sense?

...and when the cone bends, I'd set the pyrometer to the corresponding temperature, so the pyrometer would now hopefully be reading for the glass down on the shelf, not for the air up in the top...