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BORAX

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:55 pm
by Havi
Hi all,
I finally got Borax from an Israeli ceramicist.

It has been a long time with her, and is now in chunks, not in powder.
Is this borax good for use on glass?
How would I use it? Should I make it powder and then - what? sprinkle on the glass?
Or should I melt it in some liquid? which liquid would it be? Water? Whisky? something else?
what are the portions, how much liquid for how much borax?


Many thanks for your guidance and response,

Havi

Re: BORAX

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 2:20 pm
by Faye Malench
From WGB: DEVIT SPRAY (Borax/water solution)
Purpose: To prevent or minimize devitrification
How to use: Spray or brush lightly on top surface of glass prior to slump firing.
Ingredients: 1 teaspoon borax to one cup water. Distilled water works best. Regular borax cleaning powder (such as the "20 Mule Team brand" in the US) works well. Precise measurement not required.
Safety precautions: Don't drink. Wash hands after using. Long term exposure to borax can be harmful.
How to make: Just mix the borax with the water. If you put the two ingredients in a small glass jar with a lid, then cover and shake, you'll be assured of a good mixture and have a place to store the solution, too. Label the jar. Shake again prior to each use.

From Spectrum:________________________________________ Borax Overglaze
Borax overglaze is lead-free and is the lowest cost overglaze option available. It is a simple solution of Borax and water heated sufficiently until the borax goes into solution. However, it will not stand weathering. Exposed to outdoor conditions or moisture (like repeated washings) it will eventually lose its shiny surface . Use the Borax overglaze only on "indoor," decorative projects.

The specifications for this Borax overglaze are as follows:
Ingredients & MixingBorax can be purchased in grocery stores as 20 Mule Team Borax., don’t get the type with soap added.
1. Mix 5 parts water with 1 part Borax.
2. Heat this mixture until the Borax goes into solution, it does not need to come to a boil.
Application of Borax to Glass
1. Purchase a spraying device capable of spraying hot overglaze (approximately 110º F to 125º F).
2. Clean the glass thoroughly before applying overglaze.
3. Cover the kiln shelf if you intend to spray your piece on the shelf.
4. Spray the hot overglaze on over the top and all four sides of the glass at a 45º angle. By spraying the sides first, the top will generally receive a satisfactory spraying in the process, depending on the size of the glass piece.
5. The correct application appears as a fine, gritty surface that is barely visible.
6. Avoid fingerprint contact with the glass once it has been sprayed.
Use the same precautions when spraying Borax overglaze as when you use any other overglaze.
________________________________________

Re: BORAX

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 2:26 pm
by bob proulx
Faye Malench wrote:From WGB: DEVIT SPRAY (Borax/water solution)
Purpose: To prevent or minimize devitrification
How to use: Spray or brush lightly on top surface of glass prior to slump firing.
Ingredients: 1 teaspoon borax to one cup water. Distilled water works best. Regular borax cleaning powder (such as the "20 Mule Team brand" in the US) works well. Precise measurement not required.
Safety precautions: Don't drink. Wash hands after using. Long term exposure to borax can be harmful.
How to make: Just mix the borax with the water. If you put the two ingredients in a small glass jar with a lid, then cover and shake, you'll be assured of a good mixture and have a place to store the solution, too. Label the jar. Shake again prior to each use.

From Spectrum:________________________________________ Borax Overglaze
Borax overglaze is lead-free and is the lowest cost overglaze option available. It is a simple solution of Borax and water heated sufficiently until the borax goes into solution. However, it will not stand weathering. Exposed to outdoor conditions or moisture (like repeated washings) it will eventually lose its shiny surface . Use the Borax overglaze only on "indoor," decorative projects.

The specifications for this Borax overglaze are as follows:
Ingredients & MixingBorax can be purchased in grocery stores as 20 Mule Team Borax., don’t get the type with soap added.
1. Mix 5 parts water with 1 part Borax.
2. Heat this mixture until the Borax goes into solution, it does not need to come to a boil.
Application of Borax to Glass
1. Purchase a spraying device capable of spraying hot overglaze (approximately 110º F to 125º F).
2. Clean the glass thoroughly before applying overglaze.
3. Cover the kiln shelf if you intend to spray your piece on the shelf.
4. Spray the hot overglaze on over the top and all four sides of the glass at a 45º angle. By spraying the sides first, the top will generally receive a satisfactory spraying in the process, depending on the size of the glass piece.
5. The correct application appears as a fine, gritty surface that is barely visible.
6. Avoid fingerprint contact with the glass once it has been sprayed.
Use the same precautions when spraying Borax overglaze as when you use any other overglaze.
________________________________________
Hi Faye, what is the reaction the glass has to the borax overglaze.
Bob

Re: BORAX

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:36 pm
by Bert Weiss
Borax is a glass former. When heated to 1400 F it becomes a clear glass coating. This coating is good at preventing devit crystals from forming.

Over time borax is a water soluble glass former. I once boraxed some clear float sushi plates that were put through a commercial dishwasher every day for a few years. When I went back to examine them, I saw no evidence of anything I didn't want to see. I was happy about that one. If the coating wore off, I couldn't tell.

Havi, the borax should dissolve in water when you cook it to boiling. Sometimes solids will precipitate out of solution. You do not want to use those solids, but they sink in the container, so the good stuff pours out first.

You want to keep the borax off of the sides and bottom of the glass. It will stick to kiln wash.

I have applied borax solution with both spray and foam brush. Both seem to work fine. Occasionally I have seen it scum up, but not usually.

Re: BORAX

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:24 pm
by rosanna gusler
The specifications for this Borax overglaze are as follows:
Ingredients & MixingBorax can be purchased in grocery stores as 20 Mule Team Borax., don’t get the type with soap added.
1. Mix 5 parts water with 1 part Borax.
2. Heat this mixture until the Borax goes into solution, it does not need to come to a boil.
Application of Borax to Glass
1. Purchase a spraying device capable of spraying hot overglaze (approximately 110º F to 125º F).(((((((((no need to spray hot)))))))
2. Clean the glass thoroughly before applying overglaze.
3. Cover the kiln shelf if you intend to spray your piece on the shelf.((((((((((do not spray on shelf. it will wick under)))))))))))
4. Spray the hot overglaze on over the top and all four sides of the glass at a 45º angle. By spraying the sides first, the top will generally receive a satisfactory spraying in the process, depending on the size of the glass piece. ((((((no need to use hot. no need to spray sides))))))))))))))
5. The correct application appears as a fine, gritty surface that is barely visible.
6. Avoid fingerprint contact with the glass once it has been sprayed.
Use the same precautions when spraying Borax overglaze as when you use any other overglaze.((((((((((((((((((((((((( i have stuff that has been outdoors for years and it still looks fine. rosanna
________________________________________

Re: BORAX

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:54 pm
by Morganica
Most especially DO NOT let the borax spray touch anywhere but on the glass surface. If it gets onto the kilnwash between the glass and the mold, it will eat the mold. I have a great big Bullseye mold with little chewed-out chunks from borax overspray.

Re: BORAX

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 2:56 am
by Faye Malench
Hi Faye, what is the reaction the glass has to the borax overglaze.
Bob

Bob, There is no 'reaction' with the glass as far as color. It's just a surface treatment which prevents devit and makes the surface shiny - and it's cheaper than other devit sprays. I admit I have only used it when melting bottles and the rare float glass project. I prefer Super Spray, Spray A - or clear coat (forget who makes that one). I get more consistent results. On the bottles, even at full fuse temps, I could feel tiny bumps and roughness after firing. It did not overly effect the outcome. That may be due to application though I used an air-brush. On the other hand, I have a giant unknown glass table-top that will soon be recycled to 'something' and I won't hesitate to use the borax.
The others can offer you a better answer since they use it more often. I was just 'googling' for Havi. Rosanna's answer is the same as mine from the Spectrum site but she gave some extra practical tips

Faye

Re: BORAX

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 4:48 am
by Havi
Thanks to all!



I am very grateful for your responses, and the bother you took to search Borax on google - I should / could have done it myself :oops:
I read about 'bumps and roughness' is it typical to borax? Will it always happen?

However,

CaN I use Borax on colored glass too?

Many thanks again

Havi

Re: BORAX

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:47 am
by bob proulx
Faye Malench wrote:Hi Faye, what is the reaction the glass has to the borax overglaze.
Bob

Bob, There is no 'reaction' with the glass as far as color. It's just a surface treatment which prevents devit and makes the surface shiny - and it's cheaper than other devit sprays. I admit I have only used it when melting bottles and the rare float glass project. I prefer Super Spray, Spray A - or clear coat (forget who makes that one). I get more consistent results. On the bottles, even at full fuse temps, I could feel tiny bumps and roughness after firing. It did not overly effect the outcome. That may be due to application though I used an air-brush. On the other hand, I have a giant unknown glass table-top that will soon be recycled to 'something' and I won't hesitate to use the borax.
The others can offer you a better answer since they use it more often. I was just 'googling' for Havi. Rosanna's answer is the same as mine from the Spectrum site but she gave some extra practical tips

Faye
Thank you Faye.
Bob

Re: BORAX

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:14 pm
by Bert Weiss
For my routine work with float (1480ºF or less), I do not use borax, because it sometimes makes more problems than it solves. I do not get devit, anyway. For my outside the box work with float, when I fire hotter or multiple times, I do use it.

It is just a clear coating that can scum up if not done quite right.

I have always applied the borax on my workbench, cleaned off the edges, then moved the glass to the kiln. Cynthia explained well why this is the way to do it.

I started out only spraying the borax, but I have been in 2 shops where it is applied with one of those cheapie foam brushes, and it works fine. The big deal is cleaning it off the edges and bottom.

There are companies that take a few cents worth of water and borax and sell it for over a hundred dollars. A good business if you can pull it off...

Re: BORAX

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:49 pm
by Havi
THanks a lot, guys [and dolls... :wink: ]

You always come up with good advices and experience.

From what you say, I think I shall continue using my 'spray A' which has lived with me forever, and use the borax [perhaps] when I run out of this spray A.


At least I have some, and learnt how to use it.
I am very grateful!


Havi