WarmGlass.com

It seems that on projects that require more grinding than usual, I end up with devitrification no matter how well I scrub and clean the pieces. I’ve had great success treating this devit by coating with Super Spray and re-firing to 1350 for 2 to 3 minutes.

On my latest project, I had hoped to avoid the devit monster and pre-coated the fish that I was contour fusing to a 6mm plate. In the same firing, I threw in some small test coupons with ‘Lo to High fire Decals on them. I was testing for color fade, texture etc. The instructions for the decal material stated to vent the kiln during the burn off phase which I did (several inches). I’m assuming you need to vent the gases created during this step.

When I opened the kiln the next day, my blue fish had turnes RED! (No red herring jokes, please!) I’m thinking the gasses from the decals reacted with the Super Spray. I've used this glass before so I don't think it's a compatibility issue.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is there another explanation?

To remove the red, I used a Dremel to grind the edges of the fish and wet sanded / chemically etched the surfaces. Then I re-fired to polish. I think I will have to re-apply the Super Spray and fire one more time (by itself!) to be satisfied but I think it’s salvagable.

Jim

Update:
Got rid of the red with several attempts at sanding, etching and fire polishing but the finish never really shined. I wish i had access to a sand blaster! It was to be a gift so, as it was not up to my picky standards, I will make another. Definately fused alone in the kiln! I slumped the piece and will keep it or maybe take out my frustrations and break it up for a pot melt.

I am having fun with decals and Dichro slide though. Basement is very much "kiln warmed" these days.

When you say your blue fish turned red, was the blue a very pale transparent blue to begin with? Sounds more like you used a color like 1215 striker pink, which in its cold state is pale bluish/grey but strikes to a nice, rich dark pink. Of course, I'm assuming you're using Bullseye glass, so I could be wrong. I suspect it's more likely that you accidentally used a striker glass rather than the decals changing the color that drastically.

System 96
Blank - 3mm 633-76SF Crystal Opal Blue/ Aqua - under
100SF Clear - Full fused.

Fish (Blue Marlin)
230-76SFL Dark Blue Thin - Contour Fused


I used the Dark blue Thin on some Fuser's Reserve glass a few weeks ago and had no reaction. I guess it could have reacted with the clear...

I'm not super clear on the reactivity of glass. In my limited experience, I've never had a problem. From reading the info on the System 96 web site, the area of reactivity is where they touch, ie; a red line around the reactive piece. I now wish I had taken a picture.

Since it was a contour fuse, the sides of the fish came out with a redish/pink color and the surface was dark red. Definately not a Blue Marlin!!

I usually use the Super Spray, as mentioned above, with an air brush but this time I hand brushed it on the individual pieces of the fish. (maybe too heavily??)

The test pieces fired in the kiln with the plate were 2" square single layer coupons with craft punched crabs cut from Low to Hi fire decal sheet material (gold mica and yellow on various colors of glass)

I guess I could try and recreate the outcome again...