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Hi. I have a bathtub-sized kiln from Evenheat. The top lid has two heating elements; One around the edge of the lid top and one more centered. I think the centered one isn't working, as my kiln stopped ramping up to anything hotter than 1185•. I glanced inside the kiln and it wasn't illuminated orange like the outer one was. Any ideas why this is happening? Are the elements fairly easy to replace? Thanks for any feedback.

It's likely a broken element. Look for the break and pull on one side of the break gently with pliers and overlap the other side of the break by a few turns. Then order a new element from Evenheat.

Tony

Is the overlapping tip a quick repair? Would the element still heat up or is it shot?

I'm right in the middle of a project, naturally.

Thanks for answering, btw.

Overlapping is a temporary fix. Give it a try. You can get new elements from the kiln manufacturer, or Duralite, among other sources.

You could have a copper wire that corroded and fell apart. If both elements are controlled by the same relay, the relay is not the problem. Otherwise it could be a relay that failed open (not as common as failing closed).

You will most likely need to heat that element up with a propane torch to stretch it and twist it, as the elements are very brittle at room temperature.

I did this as a temporary fix, and it lasted for at least a year with almost daily firing. I've since replaced the element but it's a fix that can last a while.

Thanks so much. I'll wait until the kiln cools down before I investigate closer.

I've replaced the element with a brand new one. It still isn't working. Grumble. The lid's outer element is working but the newer is causing me grief. All connections seem correctly installed.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

Andy G. wrote:I've replaced the element with a brand new one. It still isn't working. Grumble. The lid's outer element is working but the newer is causing me grief. All connections seem correctly installed.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

Element, connections, relays, breaker, signal from controller including thermocouple. Those are the possibilities.

Bert you forgot the possibility of a fuse in the controller.

I appreciate the feedback. It seems like it's getting a tad beyond my comfort zone in terms of opening the electrical box and fiddling around. I'll need to have it looked at.

Know anyone in So. Cal that services kilns?

Andy G. wrote:I appreciate the feedback. It seems like it's getting a tad beyond my comfort zone in terms of opening the electrical box and fiddling around. I'll need to have it looked at.

Know anyone in So. Cal that services kilns?

Andy, you can absolutely replace your relays, if you haven't done that already! I have ZERO electrical experience but I replace all of my own relays. In fact, now I do it proactively instead of waiting for them to eventually fail. You can buy your elements from Online Components (much less expensive than from a kiln manufacturer). Look up the instructions for your controller, take digital photos of your step-by-step progress (so you can put everything back together), remove/replace one wire at a time, and you'll be a master in no time.

Check out the repair I did--all by myself--when my kiln melted down a couple years ago:
http://valerieadamsglass.blogspot.com/2 ... nance.html

http://valerieadamsglass.blogspot.com/2 ... epair.html

I will look into it. Thanks for the vote of confidence.
Could it be a relay issue?

Andy G. wrote:Could it be a relay issue?

That would've been my first fix.

So... I changed out all three relays. Learned a lot by doing it. Turned the kiln on and the two lid elements worked!!! I was so happy...

BUT...

Now the element around the base of the kiln DOESN'T WORK!! I know I didn't mess any of the wiring up as I did it slowly and meticulously.

Double ARG!!!

Help!

There are a couple of tools used for diagnostics, a volt/ohm meter, and an ammeter. The ohm meter will tell you if there is a break in a wire. A cheap volt/ohm meter from Radio Shack is sufficient. When the wires are solid, it beeps. If there is a break in the wire, no beep. The ammeter will tell you if there is power on in a circuit, or if you have a ground fault that is drawing power, in order to use an ammeter, you must be able to clamp it around a single wire. The volt meter will tell you when there is power available at a point. There should be power on one side of a relay all the time, and when the relay is closed it should be on both sides. Even a new relay could be defective.

Bummer!
But the fact that the two lid elements work tell you that the relay was the problem; and now you've got the experience of changing elements, so you're ahead of me!

Is there any way you accidentally replaced the bottom element relay with a bad relay? (I've been known to get piece mixed up as I'm methodically changing things!). I'd still try another relay for the bottom element, and double check all connections. The fasteners on relay pins need to be very tight to make correct contact; Paragon has a tip sheet that mentions tightening a loose connector:
http://www.paragonweb.com/files/trouble ... _Guide.pdf

Since your bottom element was working before, I'd suspect something was improperly wired and go from there. Good luck!

I finally got it to work! All three elements are now working! Thanks to all who gave their 2¢. It's much appreciated.

Andy G. wrote:I finally got it to work! All three elements are now working! Thanks to all who gave their 2¢. It's much appreciated.

What was the fix?

The element at the base was shot. Once I hooked up one of the lid's elements to the electrical connections of the base, it lit up. All in all it was a great experience for me as I rid myself of the anxiety of opening the electrical box by getting in there and moving wires around to troubleshoot the problem.

Andy G. wrote:The element at the base was shot. Once I hooked up one of the lid's elements to the electrical connections of the base, it lit up. All in all it was a great experience for me as I rid myself of the anxiety of opening the electrical box by getting in there and moving wires around to troubleshoot the problem.

Good job Andy. And the even better news is that your not dead yet! Just joking. These issues are not all that hard to figure out with a bit of basic knowledge, some basic tools, and a good eye for how it all looks.