WarmGlass.com

Hello!
I have troubles with this contour fuse: the edges of Dark Green (220-76) becomes lighter green and Chestnut (211-74 gets lighter edges.
I have no idea why ? And... is there something to do, to get it the right colour ?
Thank you for your help, Jan

oeps .. I mean the Chestnut DARker on the edges

If you look at the edges of the glass you will see that one side is darker than the other

Stephen Richard wrote:If you look at the edges of the glass you will see that one side is darker than the other

Sorry Steve, I don't see that differnce !?

Here you can see it http://www3.snapfish.nl/snapfishnl/fe/l ... s%22%7D%7D

as far as you can make an image of it

Jan

For the working link you need name and password . As Snapfish stops next month, I can give you this (and there are only 2 images of this problem, and Snapfish have no address etc of me)

Username and password removed, as I could attached the image below.

On which site is it possible to share images ? Jan

Jan de Jong wrote:On which site is it possible to share images ? Jan

If you have the image on your computer, you can attach it to your post.

To do this, just scroll down toward the bottom of the page while you're posting and click on the "Upload attachment" tab. Browse to the photo on your PC and upload it so it will be in your post.

Note that photos must be jpgs and must be 256k or smaller.

Brad Walker wrote:

Jan de Jong wrote:On which site is it possible to share images ? Jan

If you have the image on your computer, you can attach it to your post.

Really? and all this time I have been trying to post pictures to a "public" site so they can be linked too?

Well, duh. Has it always been this way? I could have sworn the board was set up so the photo has to be someplace on the internet!

Dana

JestersBaubles wrote:Well, duh. Has it always been this way? I could have sworn the board was set up so the photo has to be someplace on the internet!

Always been this way. Since we searched to the new software in 2003, that is. Close enough to always for the internet.

using a Mac?
The Preview program that comes with your computer has a resizing function.
Click on photo and copy using command C.
Open preview and go to file menu and click on 'new from clipboard'.
your photo will show up on the preview screen.
Click on Tools and then click on adjust size.
Save new file with a new name and follow the directions to upload.

Note that bigger pictures are not always better. The one below was about 200 pixels wide.

JestersBaubles wrote:

Brad Walker wrote:

Jan de Jong wrote:On which site is it possible to share images ? Jan

If you have the image on your computer, you can attach it to your post.

Really? and all this time I have been trying to post pictures to a "public" site so they can be linked too?

Well, duh. Has it always been this way? I could have sworn the board was set up so the photo has to be someplace on the internet!

Dana

Newerish versions of PhPBB have an upload-and-post capability built in. So you still have to put the photo somewhere on the Internet as always, it's just that one of the places you can now put it is...here.

2003, Brad? Lord, I'm getting old.

Thank you Brad. An easier way

Jan

Morganica wrote:2003, Brad? Lord, I'm getting old.

You're getting old? The site started in 1999, the first board in 2000.

And I turned 59 three days ago. I used to think that 60 was near death, now I think it sounds middle aged.

No solutions till now. I wonder...is it possible it comes from grinding ?? If yes, how can I avoid this ?

Jan de Jong wrote:No solutions till now. I wonder...is it possible it comes from grinding ?? If yes, how can I avoid this ?

The darker edges are most likely because the center of the opaque glass is a different color from the outside. When the glass flattens as it fuses, the darker center becomes more visible and outlines the piece. This is probably inevitable.

If you look at the sheet of glass before you cut it, you may see that the center is a different color than the top and bottom. The difference can become greater after firing.

This is common with some of the opals in both Bullseye's and Spectrum's product lines. Although it's Bullseye specific, there's another thread on this topic you may find worth reading. It's located here: http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... =2&t=40026

Brad, Thank you for the explanation ! I now understand it is the glass (and not the firing). I was thinking about grinding the glass with a 45 degrees angle (as far as possible of course). What do you think about this ? Jan

Jan de Jong wrote:Brad, Thank you for the explanation ! I now understand it is the glass (and not the firing). I was thinking about grinding the glass with a 45 degrees angle (as far as possible of course). What do you think about this ? Jan

If the 45 degree angle is angled downward (i.e., the longest part on top), this might work. But I've never tried it, so can't say for sure. I think it would be hard to totally eliminate the effect.

Another thing to try would be to experiment using powder to mask the effect. Since powder is smaller, the individual particles shouldn't show the effect. I'm not sure exactly how to do this (and it may be a stupid idea), but perhaps it's an area to investigate.

(Most people want the effect, so trying to get rid of it is a new direction for me.)

Brad: Yes, using powder is a good idea. I have to make ca. 150 leaves for a tree and I don't like the effect ! Now I have to test what is the best way and also important... the quickest way