Page 1 of 1
'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:48 am
by Havi
Good morning everybody,
If I dam a piece with iridescent glass - will it save me from cold working the edges of the piece?
I want to do a relatively big piece. I do not want to cold work the edges, therefore was thinking about this kind off solution.
I'd welcome other solutions too, if there are any.
Many thanks in advance,
Havi
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 6:56 pm
by Barb R
Havi,
Irid will stick to the unfinished sides of your glass - so I don't think it's a good material to use to for a dam. I think you have to have irid to irid before it will not adhere.
Barb
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:46 pm
by Charlotte Kay
Hi Havi,
Take a look at Bullseye tip sheet 3 "Working Deep" which uses irid for the sides:
https://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-i ... -deep.html
Experiment with a small pieces, say 4" or 5" square and 1" deep, and see if the results are what you desire.
This is a trial piece using three layers with powered leaves, using 22 layer of BE Crystal Clear plus irid for the sides, as in the tip sheet. I first fired two layers at a time then stacked them all with the sides and used dams.
Charlotte
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:03 pm
by Havi
Thanks Charlotte,
I knew I read it somewhere.
I want to make a relatively big rectangle - but I do not want to deal with coldworking, this the reason why I asked about in the first place.
I'd rather not do the piece at all then having to coldwork its edges, strange as it may sound.
Thanx a lot,
Havi
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:12 pm
by Charlotte Kay
Hi Havi,
Also read Dr. Steve Immerman's excellent tutorial on dams. Scroll to the bottom for example of deep work.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/Tutorial ... print.html
He mentions that cutting and fitting the glass with precision is the key. Use a Morton cutting system or similar. Also, squaring up the dams (ship lap) , 1/8 fiber, and then thin fire facing the irid glass.
My big block came out fine except one corner was a little askew (due to a measuring/squaring up issue as I did not have my Morton System then) but other than that it did not need cold work.
There is a new Patty Gray mold "Big Dam Mold" 8" x10" x 5/8" that might be helpful if you can find it in Israel:
http://www.sunshineglass.com/rcol/b_fus ... lds-36.htm
Hope this helps.

I am just a beginner (3 years) but have learned so much from the generous board members!
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:10 pm
by Havi
Thanks a lot, Charlotte,
Looked at Immerman's website and saw what you meant.
Thank you
Havi