WarmGlass.com

Hello,
Last night I started a full fuse. before I went to bed I saw that it was pretty close to full temp.
At some time in the night, the power went out, so the kiln shut off. I can safely assume that this happened in the cool down period, but I have no idea if it was in the AFAP to 960 range or it if it was in the anneal range.

The piece was the base layer for one of my beetles which I have posted about before:
http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... 20&t=41336

the piece LOOKS fine, which is to say it is not broken.

So, what I am wondering is if I should
1) start all over with new glass
2) re-full fuse this
3) go ahead and add the design elements on top and use a conservative tac fuse schedule...

thanks so much
Joanne

As long as you go above the strain point and then drop back down to the anneal temp, I think you should be fine. So yeah, conservative firing up to the tack fuse, process, and then anneal.

Dana W.

It depends on how well-annealed that sheet is. If you can ramp it up to the strain point/annealing range without fracturing, it won't matter whether you're tack-fusing or full-fusing or slumping--the anneal will be the same as if the kiln worked perfectly. If you can't...well, it won't matter either.

I'd just go ahead and do whatever you'd planned to do, and check on it once it's past about 1000F. If it hasn't broken, you're good.

just posting back for future generations of people looking for assistance...I did go with number three. I used a very conservative anneal schedule. going with an anneal schedule for 5/8 inch. (made up from finding the middle of the BE anneal chart for 1/2 and 3/4)
The beetles survived and look great.
thanks
Joanne