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Hi, I want to use the technique of cutting the bottom of a full fuse square slightly smaller so that the top piece folds over it in the fuse. (A tip passed on by Tony Glander in a class, but no specifics and it was long ago). I've done it before with more solid designs (also long ago), but for this one the top is stripes and I want the stripes on the outside edges to look as wide as all the other stripes.

So, should the stripes on the outside edges be slightly wider, or the same as the others? The "drop" is the thickness of a 3mm piece of glass, same thickness as the top piece, and the bottom piece will be that much smaller on each side than the top is. Or is that wrong?

Thanks for any insights, I couldn't think how to search for it.

--SB

Probably slightly larger than the thickness of the glass on the bottom

I do this all the time using float glass. I cut the top piece the same dimension larger as the thickness, where I want it to roll over. So, for 10mm glass I cut the top piece 3/4" longer. I would suspect that for fusing glasses, you might want to shorten the overhang just a bit, and create a firing schedule that gets it to roll completely over.

I have tried to do this for thicker stacks with more than 2 pieces. I have never had much luck with any of these profiles. With a 2 piece stack it works for me.

Thanks Bert. How does the finished size compare to the size of the original top piece? Is it nearly the same?
thanks again,
-SB

sbanthony wrote:Thanks Bert. How does the finished size compare to the size of the original top piece? Is it nearly the same?
thanks again,
-SB

If the piece is a large rectangle, it will tend to spread in the center of the lines, and stay the same in the corners. If you avoid the spread, it is the same. On the photo of the sink pieces, notice that I waved the front edge of the countertop piece. With this profile, you wont't notice any spread. The shorter sides have less change. I don't remember how much the circle grew, probably not much though.