Devitrification experiment... success!!
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Devitrification experiment... success!!
...Tyler Frisby's devit post got me to thinkin' about experimenting further. To this end I dirtied up a 19" glass disk and positioned it over a 2 tiered drape mold. I soaked the piece at 1325 for 15 minutes, then ramped it up to 1350 for 5 minutes. Afterward, I let it cool slowly to the annealing point(no crashing)...
...I must admit to liking the silvery iredescent sheen. It doesn't look anything like the "scummy white residue" mentioned in all the books. It accents the glass folds quite nicely, I almost hate to throw the piece in the garbage.
...I must admit to liking the silvery iredescent sheen. It doesn't look anything like the "scummy white residue" mentioned in all the books. It accents the glass folds quite nicely, I almost hate to throw the piece in the garbage.
Re: Devitrification experiment... success!!
Skin_Mechanic wrote:... I almost hate to throw the piece in the garbage.
Why throw it away? I'm with you, I like the silvery affect AND the shape. It's a keeper if you ask me. Surely you know someone who'd love to receive as a gift, it at the verrrrrry least! And of course, you remember my birthday is right around the corner....
>^..^<
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Re: Devitrification experiment... success!!
Don't thenSkin_Mechanic wrote: I almost hate to throw the piece in the garbage.
Bert
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
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Bert Weiss Art Glass*
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Architectural Commissions
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Re: Devitrification experiment... success!!
It's cool, nice piece! I would think it's not devit but tin bloom. Did you fire tin side up?.Skin_Mechanic wrote:...Tyler Frisby's devit post got me to thinkin' about experimenting further. To this end I dirtied up a 19" glass disk and positioned it over a 2 tiered drape mold. I soaked the piece at 1325 for 15 minutes, then ramped it up to 1350 for 5 minutes. Afterward, I let it cool slowly to the annealing point(no crashing)...
...I must admit to liking the silvery iredescent sheen. It doesn't look anything like the "scummy white residue" mentioned in all the books. It accents the glass folds quite nicely, I almost hate to throw the piece in the garbage.
Last edited by Hugo Gavarini on Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hugo
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The tin side was down on this one, or would that be in I've looked at it more closely since I took that pic. There are several places where the crystals had radiated out from the center of a dirt grain, like a snowflake, and a stray finger print here and there. At this point I'm wondering if it was the dirt, sweat, deodorant, or a combination of the 3 Repeating the experiment again is a must, to insure consistant results.
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I soo pleased to inspire, hmm very nice slump you have have !
I dont know if I would call that devit. It's looks like more of a hase than a Crystalization. I've slumped some temperd candle holders and got that effect its real sweet.
My attemps on Getting devit all failed, the devit gods are agains me this month. Hope he likes the warm weather in the summer to come out and play , lol
I dont know if I would call that devit. It's looks like more of a hase than a Crystalization. I've slumped some temperd candle holders and got that effect its real sweet.
My attemps on Getting devit all failed, the devit gods are agains me this month. Hope he likes the warm weather in the summer to come out and play , lol
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Hello,
You need to go well over the softening point in order to get a remarkable devit, that is, over 1346°F and for a long period of time. I would say around 1600°F by (at least) half an hour, a dirty piece helps too. But devit is a playful and treacherous animal. Brian is the specialist, amazing pieces.
Below softening point, viscosity prevents crystals and nucleous from grow.
On the other hand, tin bloom appears on the tin side of float glass when tin oxide changes valence (from a low oxide combination to a higher one). The new combination needs more room, then the solution is a microscopical surface folding which we see as tin bloom. This phenomena is increased when tin side is compressed during slumping.
You need to go well over the softening point in order to get a remarkable devit, that is, over 1346°F and for a long period of time. I would say around 1600°F by (at least) half an hour, a dirty piece helps too. But devit is a playful and treacherous animal. Brian is the specialist, amazing pieces.
Below softening point, viscosity prevents crystals and nucleous from grow.
On the other hand, tin bloom appears on the tin side of float glass when tin oxide changes valence (from a low oxide combination to a higher one). The new combination needs more room, then the solution is a microscopical surface folding which we see as tin bloom. This phenomena is increased when tin side is compressed during slumping.
Hugo
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That is interesting Hugo. I recently fired a 2 layer bowl with tin sides up and down. the top surface got the frosted look on the second(slump) firing even though it had been boraxed on the first (fuse) firing.Hugo Gavarini wrote:
On the other hand, tin bloom appears on the tin side of float glass when tin oxide changes valence (from a low oxide combination to a higher one). The new combination needs more room, then the solution is a microscopical surface folding which we see as tin bloom. This phenomena is increased when tin side is compressed during slumping.
I am more used to identifying tim bloom as the lacy look on the bottom where the glass has stretched and the bloom is only were the tin was on the surface.
Bert
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions